Friday, February 10, 2012

There's a reason it's called "the high seas"

Left Tenerife at 9 am.  Sunny & good wind that kept increasing to 35 knots the next day.  We saw a ship on the horizon that would cross in front of us, until it turned & started to come straight for us, very strange.  In fact it got really close & flashed it's lights at us & hailed us on the VHF radio.  It had orders to change course & see if we were the white sailing vessel called "Mare" or something like that.  There had been a MAYDAY on the radio for a white sailboat earlier, but no name given. 
By the 3rd day the waves had grown to 4-5 meters.  Doesn't really sound very big, does it.  But try staring down a mountain of foaming, rolling salt water coming up fast on your stern.  The top speed we hit was 14.4 knots surfing on a wave.  I started to feel nauseous & had to lie down.  Eventually I threw up.  Oh boy, it's started.  I figured I may have 3 days of acclimating to the wave action.  I WAS WRONG.  I didn't feel any better on day 4, or day 5 or 6.  But we had a couple of low wind days where we only did 130 miles & the sea flattened a bit & I didn't barf.  I even managed to make lunch a couple of times.  It's hard to recover from mal de mer at sea.  When the wind & waves picked up again my digestion resumed lock down.  Luckily Vincent offered to take my watch & Francois was a whiz in the kitchen.  Vincent & Solene made a wonderful lunch & Francois cooked us a gourmet French meal every day.  Sometimes I got to enjoy mine twice, lol.  I learned to eat very slowly & was a familiar sight on deck w/my bucket.
One morning I tell Solene, "Let's catch a fish today.  Dorado."  Later on Serge interrupts me squatting in the shower & after making the usual lascivious remarks tells me we caught a fish. My luck that the 2 highlights of the day, taking a shower & catching a fish, happened at the same time. 
Late one afternoon we're suddenly surrounded by dolphins.  This time the waves are so high that they jump right out of them on their way to our boat.  Some flipped on their side in the air.  Flipper must have escaped from Marine World & given lessons because the show was as spectacular as I've ever seen.  One dolphin shot straight up in the air about 3 meters & landed about 10 meters from the boat.  Another time 4 simultaneously jumped clear out of a wave, again 10 meters away.  This was a show for us, we were thrilled.
Francois pointed out the jellyfish on the waves.  It took a minute to see them.  They send up a sail with a coloured line on the edge & coast along.  Think inflated Pringles potatoe chip make of a Ziploc baggie.
He was looking for somebody else

We had a few of these

Before she blew

Our 2nd dorado


Our merry crew, Vincent, Solene, me, Francois, Serge
We hardly see any other vessels but twice we had ships on collision course.  Serge hailed the first one, at night, he responded & changed course to cross behind.  The 2nd was in broad daylight & it took awhile for them to respond & when he did he said he couldn't see us!  We were 6 miles, 5 miles, 4 miles, waiting for this guy to see us, which he finally did at 3 miles.  Then he changed course the wrong way, so we didn't argue & also changed course.  He crossed in front of us about half a mile.  The whole episode took 15 minutes.  Can't afford to be sleeping on watch.  In fact, Serge can't afford to sleep at all.  He passes out on the couch once in awhile, but every little disturbance/change of course or wind wakes him up.  I try to sleep in our bed, it's like hanging on to a bucking bronco.
We flew the spinnaker twice & by late evening we decided to keep it all night.  Francois & I were on deck & the wind puffed over 20 knots.  We looked at each other.  I said, "I'm starting to get scared."  He said, "I've already been scared."  I go down to tell Serge to come up & assess the spinnaker, Francois & I are scared; but he's deep in calculating the exact halfway point of our trip, coming up any minute now, & Vincent & Solene are serving dinner, so I start to help, when BANG!! an explosion up on deck & Solene screams.  The spi is down.  Serge & I look at each other & then rush up on deck.  The spi & it's sock are being dragged in the water on the port side at about 10 knots.  Looks like the halyard broke.  Thank god the spinnaker is intact.  We try to pick it up but it's a long process as the sock has filled up with water.  Serge disconnected the sock from the spinnaker to bring them up separately. After much grunting effort we get it up on board & into the front hatch. Serge and Vincent got the sock out of the water and into the cockpit.  So no more spinnaker flying for the 2nd half, which was supposed to take 8 more days.  Each day the calculations are done for mileage done & mileage remaining...& time.  We saw another sailboat & hailed it, they were also from Bretagne so our Bretagne crew had a long conversation on the radio.  When I asked Serge if he included that event in his captain's log, he said, "No, it's too trivial"  I looked at him & wondered, "Who is this man I'm married to?"
We had a great crew, Solene is an animatrice, very animated, teaching kids photography, she took an average of 1 picture every 15 min. mostly of the sea.  The rest of the trip is eventless, & I MEAN BORING, good wind & good seas.  It was very exciting to finally see land, seemed we couldn't get closer fast enough.  We landed in Le Marin in Martinique after 17 days & 8 hours.  I'm not sure I want to do it again, lol

1 comment:

  1. Oh Cynthia! I'm so happy to know you're "on this side of the pond" now! I've been thinking about you, and praying that you were doing well. So sorry for the mal de mer, and I hope it doesn't take too long to get your land legs back!
    What's next!? Enjoy Martinique, and keep us posted as time allows! Here's to you and Serge!!!

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