Monday, December 26, 2011

Uninvited guests!

 STEP AWAY from the edge!
 First Mate!
 Islote Vedra off Ibiza
 Can you find the light beacon and stairs?
 We let this one go first and the far one too

As our anchorage is too exposed we seek out the nearest marina, on the island of Formentera an hour away.  It's dark when we arrive, and shallow, less than 4 meters, so the depth alarm goes off of course.  When we spot a suitable berth the depth goes to 2.7 meters, we need 2.3.  Luckily it doesn't get any shallower.  After securing the lines we look for the electrical outlet which is again too big for our plug, so Serge goes in search of the marina personnel but finds the office closed.  An hour and a half early, according to the hours posted.  Opens tomorrow at 9.  OK, so we go exploring the little town.  Serge complains about how tired he is all the time, I reply, "It's the stress of retirement dear, it's probably going to kill you.  "Most everything is closed except the big ferry terminal, and a grow shop.  Seriously.  There is a young couple inside with a little kid running around.  How cute, a little family marijuana growing business.

The local hotel has wifi, sort of, sometimes.  You have to wait for it and catch it.  So we wait  quietly, stalking the elusive Spanish wifi.  No luck.  We call it a night and figure we'll go to the little anchorage tomorrow morning, before 9, conveniently before the office opens.   We slip out at 8 am the next day, we're getting pretty good at giving the marinas the slip, pun intended.
The water at the anchorage is very clear, but I keep seeing white things everywhere and wonder what they are.  Turns out to be garbage, mostly fast food containers, cans, etc.  Our first mosquito flies into the boat, it's a big bomber.  The little lake is fetid and smelly, brownish with tannins, no way I'm gonna rub that clay all over me.  Serge is relieved.  We relax on the beach for the afternoon, I don't know if it's a nude beach, but it is now.  Ahhh, this is what cruising is supposed to be about.
After dinner we were lamenting our solitude and wishing for company when I see a bright flash of light through the porthole over Serge's shoulder.  In another adrenaline rush we clamber topside to vaguely make out the silhouette of a big black GUN BOAT with a flashing blue light on top and a searchlight trained on us!  I smile weakly and wave.  The power of their engines and the sound of the water they displace is threatening, to say the least.  They come to our starboard side, then back up and go to port, then back up again to starboard, and back to port.  We're galloping from side to side trying to figure out what they want us to do.  Serge turns all the lights on, he tells me to go get the ship's flag.  OK, done.  Turn on the radio and give him the hand held VHF.  Roger that.  My heart is pounding in my ears when we notice they're putting bumpers out.  THEY ARE GOING TO BOARD US!  OMG!! OUR CRIMINAL PAST HAS CAUGHT UP WITH US!  They are not very forthcoming with their intentions and only talk to us when they are about 2 meters away and it's obvious they are coming aboard.  No permission asked.  They did say it was just a routine inspection, but that hardly soothes me.  I'm thinking, "Are all our papers in order?  Did we really check in to the EU from Croatia properly?"  I know we were just wishing for company but this is not what I had in mind.  Two guys in black from head to toe wearing helmets, billy clubs, jack boots, the works.  They were from customs and were totally stealth, no nav lights, no radio contact, nada.  They were joking a bit with Serge but I was so nervous I started doing the dishes.  I spied the stolen salt right in front of them on the table.  Would it be too obvious to grab it and put it under my shirt? I asked if I could take pictures and they said no, so I nonchalantly went over and picked up the iPad and thought I was snapping some pics of their backs but in my nervousness was pressing the wrong button.  Crap.  They gave us a copy of the form they were filling out and said if we ran into customs again we could show that.  Great, a get out of jail free card, we may need it. Did not get much sleep after that one, but left the next morning anyway for the coast of Spain.....
Our best sunset yet

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